INDONESIA

Mount Kerinci : Of trails and trek

Wednesday, November 30, 2016

MEMBERS OF THE JOURNEY

8 friends from Malaysia
Guide : Pak Rapani
3 Porters : Baron, Ifan and a quite guy whose name we asked but still, it slipped my mind.
Total : 12 pax

TREK : POST 1 TO SHELTER 2

Among adventure junkies, mountaineers and hikers, Indonesia is known for its tough mountain trails and Kerinci is no different. Here, I will try to describe the trails by checkpoints. There are 8 main checkpoints namely Post 1, Post 2, Post 3, Shelter 1, Shelter 2, Shelter 3, Batu Gantung and Yudha's Monument.

According to Pak Rapani, the mountain is just like Gunung Tahan in Malaysia in which it is covered by thick rainforest. There is a tiny possibility of facing with tigers that are still actively roaming the forest. Uh oh! But worry not, he said. The tigers in Kerinci just roam around. They intend no harm if we mean no harm.

The trail is flat only in the beginning and it is getting harder and harder from Post 1 up until the end. I was beginning to struggle to keep up with Pak Rapani when we were on our way to Post 3 so I was left behind at the end. I used my knees quite often to cross (I'm not sure which word to use here) big trunks as I'm only 1.5m tall. My steps were shorter than the others'. I literally had to crawl to climb up some steep paths since I was  SO exhausted and dispirited. In my mind, it felt like we're not trekking anymore, we were actually climbing. Upon seeing how tired I was, Pak Rapani offered to lift one of my mineral bottles since most of the loads I carried came from water even though he first, laughed at me. (Thank you so much).

From then on, I felt energetic and it was like there was nothing to carry on my back. It was  like I was strolling across the thick forest happily. I wasn't being left behind again and I could keep up with Baron who was quite fast. Among the three porters, I noticed that our quite porter was the fastest. 

The path got steeper and steeper from Post 3 to Shelter 2 and we had to stop every few steps to catch a breath and our pace got slower. Hands up, there is no mountain as tough as Kerinci.

Then rain started to fall, though it's only a light shower but rain means no good sign for hikers. The temperature started to drop and we could see steams coming off of our bodies when we stopped at Kem Bayangan. Rather than continue our way to Shelter 3 as planned, we decided to spend the night at Shelter 2 since there were a lot of trees to protect us from strong wind at night. 

TREK : SHELTER 2 TO 3

From Shelter 2, not only the paths are steeper than ever, we basically had to glide along gullies. The pathways are narrow and slippery. At this time, wearing a pair of gloves and a headlamp is no longer an option.

It is all rainforest until Shelter 3. 


TREK : SHELTER 3 TO BATU GANTUNG
I asked Pak Rapani if there was any attempt to discover and open new route. He said there were other routes but it would take longer to arrive.

At this point the forest is now behind us. The path is sandy and rocky. As there is no tree to protect us from heavy wind, every step was like a struggle as we were actually struggling to keep ourselves balanced.

In the middle of the journey as it seemed that the rain was not going to stop any time soon,  one of us asked Pak Rapani if we could actually reach the top. Pak Rapani seemed reluctant to give a positive answer but he pointed out a few times that the wind would be stronger at the higher stages.

At the end, some of us decided not to continue the journey as the weather was so bad and unbearable. Pak Rapani and a few others continued the journey and promised the rest of the members that they would not continue any further if they couldn't make it to the top by 8am.

Baron led the group that decided to descend back to the campsite.

Yes, I didn't make it to the top. And Kerinci was my first mountain in Indonesia.
That's me! This photo was taken at some point after Shelter 3


*Realising that Kerinci was the first mountain in Indonesia that I dared to give it a try, I felt such a strong emotion swallowing the fact that this was the first time I failed to summit.


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Mount Kerinci : Itinerary

Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Before I jump to the most waiting topic which is the hiking experience and expenses, I would like to share the itinerary of the trip.

I’ll try to make it short but full of useful information for the readers.

DAY 1

Arrived at the airport. Pak Rapani was waiting for us at the arrival hall.
He then brought us for late breakfast.

Meal : Nasi Impit, Lontong, some kulit lembu dish we never had before (but boy it’s delish) and of course Paan’s favourite Teh Botol.

Next stops :
1.Currency Exchange store
2.Outdoor stores
3.Simcard store

For late lunch, we dined at the restaurant facing Danau Kembar (Twin Lakes). However I don’t even know which one of the lakes we visited that day, whether it’s Danau Diateh or Danau Dibawah. Funny they name the lakes as Upper Lake and Lower Lake.

Meal : Nasi Padang with Hidang method. On the table, they served us Nasi Putih (Rice), Ayam Goreng (Fried Chicken), Beef Rendang, Fried Fish, Asam Pedas Ikan, Unique-looking Telur Dadar (Omelette), Sambal, Ulam Pucuk Ubi (boiled tapioca leaves).

We were introduced to Teh Telor ; a drink with egg (duck egg, if I'm not mistaken) and a slice of lime. It tasted a bit like malted drink and I would say that the drink is fine. No weird taste and consumable.

We arrived at the Gunung Tujuh Hotel late in the evening. The rooms were okay, not so clean but not really dirty.

DAY 2

We started our journey at around 8-ish in the morning. They prepared each of us a lunch and dinner pack together with 2 1.5ML-bottles of drinking water.

DAY 3

Summit attack at 3.30 am. We started to climb down from the camping site at around 11-ish and arrived at the starting point around 5.30pm.
Packing, shower, dinner and start our journey back to Padang.

DAY 4

Had a nightcap in Solok when our guide, Pak Rapani stopped for his coffee break. 

Meal : Soto was served with nasi, delicious Murtabak (beef crepes) with spicy dip and Teh Susu (milk tea)

Next stops : 
1. Padang Cement (I guess)
2. Padang Beach
3. Pantai Padang also known as TAPLAU (TAPI LAUIK)
4. Outdoor Store (again)
5. Convenience store
6. Minangkabau International Airport


Direction sign boards of various countries at Taplau


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INDONESIA

Mount Kerinci : Preparation

Monday, November 14, 2016


I was enjoying my creamy butter chicken when a friend of mine asked whether I would like to join him to Padang for a hiking trip. If I agreed, it would be my first hiking trip in Indonesia. I was hesitant at first, knowing it had been so long since the last time I hiked. I wasn’t fit anymore. So the invitation was being left unanswered for quite some time until I asked him again more than a month after that whether the invitation was still stand.


Information I gathered pre-Kerinci


Most of the information I gathered was from the Internet and some friends who have been there before me. Thanks, B.
1.   Kerinci is the highest volcano in Indonesia and it is located in Sumatra Island.
2.   The trek starts from Kersik Tuo Village.
3.   Your journey will start from the Airport, Padang – Kersik Tuo – Kerinci.
4.   The journey (by car/MPV) from Minangkabau International Airport to Padang is about 7 – 8 hours.
5.   The peak is 3,805 metres above sea level.
6.   There are 8 main checkpoints along the way starting from Post 1,2,3, Shelter 1,2,3, Batu Gantung and Yudha’s Monument.
7. The lowest temperature at the Shelter 3 and higher points could be around 5°C

Accommodation

Gunung Tujuh Hotel, around 20 or 30 minutes’ drive from the starting point.

Fitness Preparation


I TRIED to go for a run at least 5 times a week in the final month before the departure. I repeat, I tried. 

Essentials

2 pairs of gloves
2 pairs of socks
A t-shirt and a pair of trousers for hiking
Another pair for sleeping
Jacket/windbreaker
Fleece – I wore heat tech from Uniqlo
Raincoat
A hiking backpack of 40L to 50L
A small bag for summit attack (10L)
Headlamp with extra batteries
Sleeping bag
Wet tissues
Personal emergency kits
Toiletteries
Some dry food
Sunblock



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